The train had just pulled out of Woodlands checkpoint when I realised something: I hadn’t checked my phone once in twenty minutes. Outside the window, the Malaysian countryside was unspooling slowly — green fields, then rubber plantations, then a village with laundry strung between trees like a promise to come back.
That is what the Eastern & Oriental Express does. It makes you stay present. And after days aboard Belmond’s flagship Southeast Asian train, I think that is exactly the point.
Boarding: easier than it sounds
We flew into Singapore from London and stayed a couple of nights before heading to the border. The team arranged a private pickup from our hotel — roughly 25 minutes downtown — and we were whisked through Malaysian immigration onto the platform.
The E&OE staff were waiting for us there, warm and unhurried. No stuffiness at all. Just genuine smiles and help with everything before you even step inside your cabin.
Luggage: keep it small
The cabins are cosy — as train cabins should be. The team stores your larger bags in a secure hold, retrievable at the end of the journey. What I’d recommend is bringing a hand-luggage-sized bag on board so you have room to move around inside.
Three cabin types, one dedicated butler
A personal butler takes you straight to your cabin and stays with you throughout the trip. The beds are made every single night while you’re at breakfast — crisp linen waiting when you return from dinner.
There are three bookable cabins:
- Pullman Cabin — the smallest, with bunk-style beds and an ensuite shower room.
- State Cabin — two convertible single beds that become sofas by day. This is what we booked.
- Presidential Suite — the largest option, if you want to stretch out completely.
Pricing increases with cabin size, though Belmond keeps specific rates flexible depending on season and route.
Wandering the communal carriages
Regardless of which cabin you book, everyone has free rein of the whole train. You get about 60 minutes before departure to explore — and trust me, use it all.
The Observation Car
Ours was right next to our State Cabin at the rear of the train. It has a cocktail bar, lounge seating, and an outdoor observation deck. We ended up there multiple times a day, especially in the evening when it gets quieter and the views through Malaysia are at their best.
Malaya & Adisorn Restaurant Cars
These two carriages handle all meals. Each day you’re given a table alongside other travellers — sometimes for two, sometimes for four. It’s a great way to make friends. By the end of our trip, every guest knew everyone.
If you’d rather keep to yourself, just ask for a two-seater. No one minds.
The Piano Car Bar
This is the heartbeat of the train. Daytime brings cocktails, champagne, hot drinks, afternoon tea, and light snacks after you return from excursions. In the evening, live musicians perform — we often stayed here until well past midnight.
Dior Spa Car
The spa has two treatment rooms, both beautiful. I booked a Dior massage one evening after exploring Langkawi, and it was surreal having a treatment while the train carried me through Malaysia.
There’s also a small shop selling E&OE merchandise — crockery, champagne flutes, tiffin boxes. Buy early. Things sell out as the journey draws to a close, and we grabbed a tiffin box and flutes to take back home.
Which journey to choose?
The E&OE runs seasonal journeys and specific focus routes across Malaysia. We booked the Essence of Malaysia itinerary — it included Langkawi, Penang, and the historic city of Ipoh. All excursions are included in the fare.
The onboard concierge calls about a month before departure to organise your daily excursion choices and book Dior Spa slots. Do this in advance; availability is limited on both.
Sleep: better than you’d expect
If you’re a light sleeper, the train movement might wake you slightly at night. Noise wasn’t an issue for us — our cabin stayed quiet throughout.
The real challenge was staying awake long enough to enjoy everything. We burned the candle at both ends because of total FOMO on all the Piano Car music and Observation Deck views. Late nights and early mornings were entirely our own doing.
The Golden Hour
Golden hour on the Eastern & Oriental Express is not a time of day — it’s any evening spent in the Piano Car with a glass of champagne, live music drifting through the carriage, and Malaysia passing softly beyond the windows.
Frequently asked questions
Are excursions included in the price?
Yes. All excursions are included. Each stop offers different options — tours, beach days, cooking classes, and more. The concierge helps you book before boarding.
Do I need a large suitcase for the cabin?
No. Bring a hand-luggage-sized bag on board. Larger bags are stored securely and returned at the end of your journey.
Are there other Belmond trains worth considering?
Yes — Belmond operates the Orient Express in mainland Europe, the Britannic Explorer and British Pullman in England and Wales, the Royal Scotsman in Scotland, and both the Andean Explorer and Hiram Bingham train in Peru.
A note from Luna
Some trains take you somewhere. The Eastern & Oriental Express makes the journey itself the destination. I kept meaning to go back to my cabin, but the windows and the music always had other plans.
Keep Reading