I’d never heard of Skiathos either, honestly. My parents came back from there last year with these photos of golden sand and water so clear it looked edited, and something clicked. That sounded like exactly the kind of island I needed.
So at the end of June, I went. A week of beach-hopping by scooter and boat, evenings wandering cobbled lanes in Skiathos Town, and more mezze than I knew was possible. Here’s what I learned.
Skiathos Tips
Get a 200cc scooter. The hills are no joke, and the bigger engine makes them feel manageable. We rented ours through our hotel for €20 per day — total game-changer.
Public transport works if you stay on the south coast. Summer buses run every 10 minutes along it, so beach-hopping by bus is totally doable. The north beaches, though, are off the route.
Parking is free everywhere, but finding a spot in Skiathos Town can be tricky. A motorbike helps.
Grab a paper map at the tourist office. Google Maps got us from A to B fine, but the paper map shows which roads are unpaved and where every beach is.
Carry some cash. Most places take cards, but some sunbed rentals — ironically, often the pricier ones — are cash only.
The tap water is high in minerals. On our hotel’s advice, we drank bottled water instead. Ugh, the plastic — but we didn’t want to risk stomach upsets.
Don’t flush toilet paper. It clogs. There are bins for it.
The Beaches
There are over 60 beaches on Skiathos, and they range from golden sandy stretches backed by pine trees to pebbly coves under dramatic cliffs. The south coast is the developed side — tarmac road, beach clubs, water sports, sandier shores sheltered from the wind. A 20-minute drive connects Skiathos Town in the east all the way to Koukounaries Beach in the west.
The north coast is quieter and wilder, with dirt roads that get rough fast. The northeast beaches are pebbly; the northwest has some sandy ones. It gets windier up there, so I’d skip the north when the northerly winds are strong.
Sunbed Rentals
Most beaches offer them, and we genuinely appreciated having shade. In late June (high season but not peak), sunbeds ran between €12 and €30 a day for two beds and an umbrella. Prices shift by month, so don’t take ours as gospel.
Just sit where you like — unless there’s a reserved sign — and someone comes to collect payment eventually. If you want front-row in high season, arrive before 10am (most open at 9). Free sections always exist too, and shops along the south coast sell umbrellas from €12 if you want to go DIY.
Krifi Ammos — Hidden Beach
This is my favourite. ‘Krifi Ammos’ literally means Hidden Sands, and it lives up to the name. It’s in the northwest corner, just past Agia Eleni. The last stretch of road is dirt but easy compared to Ligaries. You park by the first sign and walk down a steep path — three minutes down, harder on the way back.
The bay sits beneath rugged green cliffs, sand-and-pebble beach, calm water in the morning that picks up a bit by afternoon. I saw a few fish while snorkelling, though I wouldn’t call Skiathos a snorkelling destination overall.
Sunbeds are €20 and they fill up fast — arrive before 10:30am. Maria’s Taverna (called Kryfi Ammos Restaurant on Google Maps) sits just above the beach and is fantastic for lunch. Greek salad, mezze, a view down to the water. We paid by card there.
Ligaries Beach
Another quiet north-coast gem, but the road is proper rough — winding dirt through forest and even across a shallow river. We managed on a scooter, but I wouldn’t send nervous drivers this way.
The beach itself is large with plenty of space. Sunbeds were €12 — cheapest we found — and you could pay by card. Coarse sand mixed with pebbles, so bring water shoes if you plan to play in the shallows.
Taverna Ligaries is a 3-minute walk behind the beach. It gets packed by 1pm, so go at 12:30 when the kitchen opens. The attendant can also deliver drinks to your sunbed, which felt like a small luxury on a hot afternoon.
Koukounaries Beach
The most popular beach on the island, and for good reason. Golden shimmery sand — softest on Skiathos — shallow crystal-clear water perfect for kids or anyone who likes wading. Pine trees back it, providing natural shade that fills up fast.
We parked at the large free car park at the east end (first entrance from town, near bus stop 23) and walked across the bridge onto the beach. Rented sunbeds just past Da Luz Beach Bar — €30, the most we paid, but they were padded and comfortable. Cash only here.
Food at the beach bars was mediocre, so I’d grab a pastry from a bakery on the way. We rented a jetski from SaltO for €50 for 15 minutes — fun, though short.
Agia Eleni
Last of the southern beaches, just west of Koukounaries. Sandy, pine-backed, fairly wind-protected. The sand is slightly coarser than Koukounaries with a few pebbles.
Two beach bars, sunbeds €20 (cash only). We chose Summer Beach but regretted it — the DJ music got too loud in the afternoon. Food was OK but nothing to write home about.
The sunset here is genuinely one of the best on the island. Swimming in that shimmering sea as the light goes warm… worth coming back for.
Elias Beach
Also called Elia Beach, this one was too windy when we visited — rough seas, not swimmable. But it looked beautiful and I’d go again on a calmer day.
Sandy beach with sunbeds around €15 plus free space. A well-reviewed beach bar (cash only). It’s past Krifi Ammos down a dirt road, or about 30 minutes’ walk through the forest from bus stop 23 in Koukounaries.
Renting a Boat
One of the best things to do on Skiathos. Some beaches simply aren’t accessible by road, and having your own boat means you stop where you want, when you want.
The old port has everything from all-day Mamma Mia trips to Skopelos (where the movies were filmed) to simple water taxis to Lalaria or Tsougria. You can book in advance — there’s a {{link:https://www.neverendingvoyage.com/skiathos-greece-travel-guide/|Mamma Mia Island Cruise}} and this {{link:https://www.neverendingvoyage.com/skiathos-greece-travel-guide/|Cruise to Lalaria, Kastro, and Tsougris}} — but we prefer renting our own.
Some boats need no licence. We booked through Skiathos Boat Hire at Paralia Vasilias a few weeks ahead via WhatsApp. Their cheapest boat is €130 a day; we paid €160 for Katerina, which was newer and more spacious — enough room to lie back on the padded seats when anchored. Fuel is extra (we spent €45).
All boats include a cool box, shade canopy, dry bag for swimming ashore, and a ladder. Rentals run 10am–6pm with a 45-minute safety briefing at start — still enough time to loop the whole island with four swim stops.
Our first stop was Lalaria, considered the most beautiful beach on Skiathos. Pebble shore under dramatic cliffs, with a stone arch you can actually swim through. All the tours go here though, so it was crowded by the time we arrived.
Next was Kastro — the ruins of Skiathos’s ancient capital sit high on the hill. We found an empty bay just past there and had it entirely to ourselves. The turquoise water was astonishingly clear.
We continued along the northern beaches, then stopped at spots on the south coast we wanted to return to by road. Our final stop: Tsougria Island, with lovely beaches and incredible water. It was our favourite day on the island.
The Golden Hour
5:30pm at Agia Eleni — the DJ has just turned down, the sun hits the pine trees behind the beach, and the sea turns that colour you didn’t think water could actually be. Stay for this one hour.
Skiathos Town
Our days belonged to the beaches; our nights to Skiathos Town. Cobbled lanes, whitewashed buildings with blue shutters, bougainvillaea everywhere. Tavernas spill into the streets and you dine under vines.
The Old Port is lovely for an evening drink — chilled early on, livelier later. But mostly we went there to eat.
Favourite Restaurants
Food quality was generally high across the island, except at a few south-coast beach bars (bakery pastry on the way is a better bet). We’re vegetarians and found good options everywhere — especially on starters menus. A selection of shared mezze almost always beat mains for us.
I Love Souvlaki — we kept going back for the halloumi pitta. Quick, under €5, lovely vine-filled garden.
Alaska — gelato almost every night. After Eight Mint Stracciatella was my favourite; Simon loved Banoffee. Outside tables on the main street are perfect for people-watching.
Marmita — book days ahead. Elegant versions of local dishes. The grilled Mastelo cheese was our favourite dish of the trip. Vegan moussaka is popular, though I found it a bit heavy in the heat. The cacio e pepe wasn’t great — Simon’s fault for ordering a Roman dish in Greece.
Nikos Restaurant — affordable mezze with vegetarian and vegan options marked on the menu. Outside seating was cramped, and meat cooking outside might deter some vegetarians.
Avlios Yard Restaurant — pretty courtyard, tasty mezze, bread straight from their wood-fired oven.
To Palouki — classic taverna on a side street, affordable, solid mezze. Lots of cute restaurants nearby.
Las Ramblas — Simon’s favourite for coffee. Single-origin beans. Stick to the espresso; the V60 wasn’t well brewed.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at Hotel Paradise, up a hill about 10 minutes outside Skiathos Town. They have a free shuttle bus into town, though it’s fairly limited — we preferred the motorbike.
Peaceful location with views of the sea and hilly interior. There’s a pool (open 10am–6:30pm), but we didn’t use it. Towels aren’t provided — bring your own or buy on the island for around €10.
Old-school, family-run hotel. Our room was basic with dated decor but had a balcony and sea view. Comfortable bed, plenty of storage. Fridge and air conditioning in every room, no kettle. Stock that fridge — drinks at the hotel are pricey.
The hotel sprawls without a lift. We were on the 2nd floor, furthest from reception, and it was something of a maze with lots of stairs. If mobility is an issue, ask for ground-floor near reception.
Breakfast was a basic buffet — I enjoyed the Greek yoghurt and fruit. Simon thought the coffee was terrible, so he walked into town to Las Ramblas every morning.
Overall, Hotel Paradise was a solid budget-friendly option that attracts an older crowd. We liked the location, though it might feel isolated for some. {{link:https://www.booking.com|Check prices and availability on Booking.com}}.
Getting to Skiathos
Skiathos has its own international airport (JSI) with direct flights from various European cities. We flew London Gatwick with Tui — flights were expensive, so book well in advance. EasyJet, British Airways, and Jet2 also fly from the UK.
Ferries arrive from Volos and Mantoudi on the mainland. Skopelos is only 30 minutes away on the quickest ferry, so combining the two islands makes sense. {{link:https://www.ferryhopper.com|Ferry Hopper}} is a useful site for routes and bookings.
FAQ
Is Skiathos worth visiting?
Absolutely — if you want a relaxed island with lots of beautiful beaches. It’s easy to get there and around, even the furthest beach was only 30 minutes from our hotel. There’s not much beyond sand and sea (though I’d love to try the hiking trails in a cooler month), but for that, Skiathos is excellent.
Do I need a car on Skiathos?
Not essential if you stay on the south coast — buses run every 10 minutes there in summer. But a scooter or car gives real freedom, especially for reaching the north beaches that aren’t on any bus route.
Can I drink tap water in Skiathos?
The tap water is high in minerals. Many visitors drink bottled to avoid stomach upsets. It’s a personal call — there are mixed opinions, but we didn’t want to risk it.
Some nights I’d sit on the balcony with a glass of something cheap from the fridge, listening to the scooter engines fade down the hill. Skiathos doesn’t try very hard — and that’s exactly why you go there.