I arrived on Rishiri Island without the person I usually travel with. It had been years since I last went anywhere solo, and it hit me only when the invitation came for one of us: how much I relied on that familiar presence while navigating unfamiliar places.
The island turned out to be exactly what I needed — a remote volcanic slice of Hokkaido where food and quiet walk hand in hand. Here is how I spent a perfect day there.
Eat Rishiri’s Famous Kombu
Rishiri is famous for its kombu, a type of edible kelp with a delicate umami that chefs across Japan seek out. I made it my mission to fill the day with kombu in every form.
Tororo Kombu Ramen at Maruzen Shokudo — A casual local spot near Oshidomari Port, serving ramen that is light yet deeply flavorful. The kind of bowl you do not expect to remember an hour later.
Uni Kombu Ice Cream at Kita Rindo — Hirakawa-san invented this and recommends a specific order: start with the dry uni and ice cream, mix in the kombu, then finish the rest. You taste Hokkaido’s dairy alongside two of its most celebrated regional ingredients.
Buy kombu at Hatamiya Foods — After a walk through Senhoshi Misaki Park, I stopped here for wild kombu harvested solely from Rishiri’s waters. It made the best souvenir for friends who cook at home.
Pick Sea Urchins at Kamui Park
Rishiri uni is considered the highest grade in Japan — and it feeds on the very kombu the island is famous for. It feels like a food ecosystem that keeps getting better.
Weather permitting, you can pluck sea urchins directly from the ocean at Kamui Park and learn to crack them open yourself. On the day I visited, the water was too choppy, so they simulated the experience offshore instead.
I picked one that waved its spines at me from my basket. A part of me felt guilty — I am not used to killing my own meal — but there was no way through Rishiri without tasting this uni. At 2,000 yen per round, I would have repeated it all day.
Pro tip: the picking experience runs from June to August, with prime harvest in July and August.
Hike Around Himenuma Pond
On calm days, Himenuma Pond mirrors Mt. Rishiri perfectly — a cone so sharp it earned the nickname “Rishiri Fuji.” It was cloudy when I walked the loop trail, but the reflection or not, the walk itself felt like forest bathing.
Photography tip: early morning gives you calmer waters and better reflections.
Bike the Coastal Roads
The island has a mostly flat 60 km (37.3 mi) loop road that circles the coastline, threading through Himenuma, Otatomari-numa, Senhoshi Misaki Park, and Shiroi Koibito no Oka.
There are three route options:
- Green Line — 6.5 km (4.0 mi)
- Blue Line — 18 km (11.2 mi)
- Rishiri Cycle Road — 60 km (37.3 mi)
We rented e-bikes from our hotel and took a leisurely morning ride near the Green Line. Next time I want to do the full loop with stops along the way.
Rental rates at Island Inn Rishiri: 500 yen per hour, 2,500 yen per day for six hours or more (usage 7:00 AM – 6:00 PM). Plan for 6–8 hours to complete the full loop with stops.
Try Kamui Whisky
Kamui Whisky KK is a small-batch distillery that relocated to Rishiri Island specifically for the volcanic climate and pristine rainwater. The water has spent over a decade filtering through the island’s rock before it reaches each bottle.
I tried their Genshu — already award-winning, though I do not drink much these days. They plan to release their matured Japanese whisky in the fall of 2026.
Pro tip: schedule a tasting right after sea urchin picking at Kamui Park — they are next door.
The Golden Hour
Sunset on the coastal road, wind in my hair from the e-bike handlebars, and a warm bowl of kombu ramen at the first lit window I found. That was the hour worth planning around.
More to Do on Rishiri Island
- Numaura Observatory — this is where you can see the mountain view that appears on Shiroi Koibito cookie packaging.
- Senhoshi Misaki Park — coastal and mountain scenery, right across from Hatamiya Foods.
- Otatomari Swamp — another spot for Rishirifuji reflection shots.
Where to Stay
I stayed at Island Inn Rishiri. The decor felt dated, but everything was clean, and the breakfast and dinner buffets were my favorite meals of the trip. It sits in Rishiri town, convenient to both the ferry and the cycling path.
Onsen tip: if you have tattoos, pick up concealer stickers before your trip — I bought mine at Don Quijote in Tokyo.
Tips for Visiting Rishiri Island
- Best time to visit: May through June for sea urchin season and peak flowers. August and September are quieter but the flowers have passed.
- Language: Google Translate helped a lot. Rishiri gets mostly domestic travelers, so English speakers are fewer. I also use Teuida to practice speaking Japanese.
- Cash is king: Very few ATMs on the island and many places do not accept cards.
- e-SIM: Get one before you arrive — I purchased mine on Klook and activated it upon landing in Japan.
- Transport: Rent a bike or car. The island is small but not walkable between towns.
- Weather: It changes quickly. Bring a waterproof jacket and layers, even in summer.
- Pair it with Rebun Island: Ferries make hopping between the two easy if you have extra time.
FAQ
How long does it take to bike around Rishiri?
The full 60 km (37.3 mi) loop takes about 6–8 hours with stops. The Green Line at 6.5 km and Blue Line at 18 km are good shorter options.
When is the best season for sea urchin picking?
Kamui Park’s uni-picking experience runs from June through August, with July–August being prime harvest time. Weather-dependent — choppy water means they switch to an offshore simulation.
Is Rishiri Island suitable for solo travelers?
Absolutely. The cycling loop is easy to navigate alone, many activities are self-guided, and the island’s pace suits quiet exploration. Just bring cash and some basic Japanese phrases.
I went to Rishiri looking for food and ended up finding a slower version of myself — one who does not mind cloudy reflections or choppy water, as long as there is uni on the plate.