By the time I reached the ridge above Manarola, the sea had turned the exact blue you stop believing in photographs for. No crowds right there, just wind in the vineyards and a village far below. That’s the part of Cinque Terre I keep coming back to — not the postcard squares, but the trail that climbs above them.
The Corniglia to Manarola hike via Volastra is 6.65km (4.1 miles) one way, roughly 2.5 hours of walking, and — unlike the coastal sections of the Blue Trail — it’s free. I’ve walked this route on the Italian Riviera and it’s the one I recommend most, for the views, for the break at Volastra, and because you can skip the ticket queues entirely.
The hike at a glance
Location: Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy — 112km (70 miles) from Pisa Airport.
Length: 6.65km (4.1 miles), one way, Corniglia Station to Manarola.
Time: 2.5 hours of walking, about 3 hours with breaks.
Elevation gain: 376 metres (1,234 feet). The highest point sits around 400 metres (1,312 feet) above sea level.
Difficulty: intermediate — the first 40 minutes are a steady climb on stone steps, then the trail levels out.
Terrain: stone stairs and narrow, rocky dirt paths. Hiking shoes, or at least running shoes with good grip, are worth it.
Best time: spring or autumn. In early May it was 17ºC (63ºF) and sunny — perfect hiking weather. April and September work just as well.
A sign at the trailhead estimates 1 hour 45 minutes to Volastra and 2 hours 30 minutes to Manarola. I’d go in the direction I did, Corniglia down to Manarola: the trail out of Manarola is very steep, and I’m glad we did it this way for a slightly easier ascent. The views of Manarola on the way down were lovely.
If climbing big hills isn’t for you, you can take the bus from Manarola up to Volastra and hike the rest — you’ll still have a steep descent, but it’s a real option.
How I got to Corniglia
The trains are the way to move around Cinque Terre. Between villages it’s a five-minute hop, €5–10 depending on the time and date. I was based in La Spezia, and the train to Corniglia took 15 minutes. Levanto, on the other side of the archipelago of villages, is another quiet base I like — 16 minutes by train to Corniglia.
One practical note: the stations get busy, with long queues at the ticket machines. I bought my tickets in the Trenitalia app instead — you just have to purchase more than five minutes before departure. And do it in advance if you can: I had no signal at Manarola station.
Start early if you can. Ideally 7–8am. We weren’t able to and arrived in Corniglia at 10.30am; the hike was busier than I would have liked, and an early start matters even more on hot days.
Corniglia is the middle village, and the smallest — and the highest, sitting 100 metres above the sea. The trade-off: a steep walk up 382 stairs (Scalinata Lardarina) zigzagging from the station to the village. There’s a bus, but with long queues, we took the stairs: about 15 minutes.
At the top I walked a little past the trailhead to A’Caneva Bar for a quick espresso and to use their toilet. There are public toilets in the village too, but they cost €1 and don’t have great reviews — and this is your last chance to use a bathroom until Volastra. If you haven’t seen Corniglia, it’s the quietest of the five villages and worth a slow look around.
From there, two minutes back to the trailhead, marked Sentiero 7A Corniglia-Volastra-Manarola on Google Maps. The path is well marked with signposts and red-and-white stripes; I used AllTrails for directions (a Plus membership lets you download routes offline), but the markings are clear enough to follow without it.
There’s a water fountain at the trailhead, but come with a full bottle anyway.
Corniglia to Volastra: the climb
Be honest with yourself: the first hour is the hardest part of the day. You climb stone steps for a long while — about 40 minutes before it starts to level off. It’s not as steep as the approach from Manarola, but it will get your heart rate up. I took a short break every 10 minutes and found it manageable; if you’re fairly fit, it’s a workout rather than a struggle.
The early section runs through the trees, with the occasional look back to Corniglia and the sea. At the highest point, around 400 metres (1,312 feet), there’s no obvious summit — the mountains go on above you — but the views open up and you can gaze at Corniglia far below.
After that the trail levels out into gradual ups and downs. Still narrow and uneven in places, but much easier.
And then, about an hour in, the trail opens up. You walk along a ridge through terraced vineyards with the sea stretching out below. This is the highlight of the whole hike, and the moment I think of when I tell people about Cinque Terre.
Manarola eventually pops into view, still a long way down. By midday the trail had become uncomfortably busy in patches — it’s single file in spots, and we waited for a few tour groups to pass. If you’re afraid of heights, the narrow paths and steep drop-offs are a little disconcerting. Otherwise it’s an easy, glorious stretch.
Just before Volastra, I found the best surprise of the day: a small rustic bar tucked among the vines, Cantina Capellini – Agrivino. I couldn’t resist a glass of Cinque Terre DOP white wine, and a mixed bruschetta (I asked for it vegetarian, without anchovies). The toppings were nice; weirdly, the bread wasn’t toasted — presumably facilities are limited up here. Worth it.
Five minutes further on, the path descends into Volastra itself, at 335 metres, past its tiny church. It took me about 1 hour 40 minutes from the trailhead — two hours from Corniglia Station, including the wine break.
A break at Volastra
Volastra is tiny, but there’s more than one place to stop. I had my impromptu wine stop, so I just grabbed a coffee at Chiosco del Sole and used their toilet — awkwardly located behind the counter. It’s a cute little place with garden seating and a snack menu of sandwiches and burgers, with vegan options. Order at the counter before taking a seat. In May their hours were 11am–6pm every day, closed in bad weather.
Elsewhere in the village: Minimarket La Bottega, a shop with focaccia and sandwiches; Arcobaleno, a bar-restaurant with sandwiches and gelato, or a proper meal — pasta and fish. There’s no public toilet, so you’ll need to buy something at one of the bars. And there’s a water fountain to refill your bottle.
Volastra down to Manarola
To find the trail, look for the Manarola sign down an alley off Via Montello, between La Bottega and Arcobaleno. From there it’s downhill on stone stairs that really work your legs.
About ten minutes in, you come across a road — don’t follow it. Go right to stay on the trail and leave the road behind. From here the dirt path is flatter, a pleasant break from the stairs. One of my favourite moments was seeing a little vineyard train pass by — the farmers use these to move tools, and the harvested olives and grapes, up and down the steep terraces.
The closer to Manarola, the better the views get: wildflowers, vineyard terraces, that vivid blue sea, the pastel village seen from above. There are steep steps again near the end, but the views earn them.
I reached Manarola at 1.30pm, three hours after starting at Corniglia Station. The village was rammed; I couldn’t find a seat without a long wait. My advice: eat in Volastra. Manarola is for the view, not the lunch queue. The train station is reached through a tunnel, and from there I took the train back.
FAQ
Do I need a ticket to hike Corniglia to Manarola via Volastra?
No. The Cinque Terre Trekking Card (€10–15, free November to February) is only for the coastal Blue Trail sections like Corniglia–Vernazza–Monterosso. The Volastra route is free. A Cinque Terre Treno Card, which adds unlimited trains on the La Spezia–Cinque Terre–Levanto line, can save money if you’re taking many train journeys.
Which direction is easier, Corniglia to Manarola or the reverse?
Corniglia to Manarola. The trail out of Manarola is very steep; the other way gives you a slightly easier ascent and the best views of Manarola on the way down.
Is the hike too hard for an average walker?
The first 40 minutes are a real workout on stone steps, and you’ll struggle if you’re not fairly fit. After that it levels out. With an early start and a break in Volastra, it’s very doable.
The Golden Hour
On this route it’s the ridge walk above Volastra, late morning turning to afternoon light: vineyard terraces on one side, the Ligurian coast on the other. That’s the hour the whole climb pays off for — and the hour I’d plan my slowest stops around.
A note from Luna: I’ve done a lot of coastal walking in Italy, and this is the one that changed how I think about Cinque Terre. The villages are beautiful, but the ridge is better. Start early, bring water, and let Volastra have you for longer than you planned.