I arrived at the port expecting nothing more than ferries and crowds. The town was already changing by the time I walked through it — seafood terraces along the water, old streets that still smelled like a market from 1969, a hilltop where the whole city spread out below me.
Piraeus is no longer just Athens’ gateway to the Greek islands. It’s worth at least one full day here, even two if you want to slow down. Here’s how I walked it.
Where Piraeus Is
It sits 12 km south-west of Athens. A drive takes around 30-60 minutes; by bus or train about 60 minutes. It’s also the starting point for the Athenian Riviera, which stretches along the coast through Glyfada and Voulagmeni to Cape Sounion.
The Route: Stop by Stop
I started at the railway station and worked my way down to the sea. Here is the order I followed.
Old Railway Station
The walk begins here. The station was built in the 1920s, when the rail link between Athens and Piraeus first opened. Overground Line 1 (green) starts and ends here; if you come on Metro Line 3 (blue), head up to street level. Take a moment for the glass roof over the train hall — it’s one of those quiet architectural details that makes an old station feel worth stopping for.
Electric Railway Museum
Tucked inside the station, this small museum is free and run by railway enthusiasts. I remember looking at a restored wooden carriage from the original line and old photographs going back to the 1920s. They lend English-language guides at the entrance. No photos allowed inside, but it’s worth five minutes.
Piraeus Port
Just across the road from the station. There’s a pedestrian bridge right by the station — useful for watching ferries head out to the islands if you haven’t come from there yourself.
Mandragoras and the Old Market Area
A few blocks from the station on Dim. Gounari street, Mandragoras is a traditional food shop at 14-16 Dim. Gounari. It’s a remnant of the old municipal market that stood here until it was demolished in 1969 to make way for the Piraeus tower. Walk down pedestrianised Nikita Street and nearby lanes for more of those old-school grocers.
Rakadiki Stoa Kouvelou
On Karaoli ke Dimitriou street, this covered arcade was built in 1890 as an inn. The space has a glazed roof wrapped in vines and original tiles throughout. Inside are kafenions — the kind of coffee shops where old Greek men gather to talk with friends all afternoon.
Agia Triada Cathedral
You can’t miss it facing the port. An original church was built here in 1839 and destroyed by a bomb during WW2. What stands today was reconstructed in the 1950s, Byzantine style, with painted iconography and whatever survived from the older building.
Dimotiko Theatro Square
About a 10-minute walk on. There’s a Metro stop here — the final one for Line 3 from Athens — so it’s an alternative arrival point if you prefer to start closer to the city side. Above ground, the square is green and quiet, with views of the renovated neo-classical Municipal Theatre that gives it its name.
On a Saturday I passed through, there was a craft and farmer’s market on Korai Square with local honey and other specialties from the area.
Sotiros Dios — Shopping Street
A couple of blocks past Korai Square. This pedestrian street is the heart of Piraeus’ shopping district. I stopped at Laouta on Kountouriotou 153 for their body cream and soap — made in Greece with herb extracts and virgin olive oil, and they actually smelled lovely.
Plateia Terpsitheas
A square split into four small parks by crossing roads. Along one side is Paleologou street, where most of the coffee shops cluster. Liberty cafe at Paleologou 5 for something traditional; East Coast Concept Store at Paleologou 9 and Coffee Tales at Paleologou 7 if you want a more modern cup.
The Greeks love a freddo cappuccino — black coffee and frothy milk served in a glass, chilled. It’s exactly what you need on a hot afternoon.
Archaeological Museum of Piraeus
A 10-minute walk from the square. The museum sits in an imposing neo-classical building next to the remains of the Ancient Theatre of Zea. Two floors of white marble statues, funeral monuments, ceramic vases and painted amphorae with daily-life scenes from Mycenaean times.
The things that stayed with me: ancient weights and measures at the entrance (Piraeus was a serious trading hub), the Lion of Piraeus — a copy of the originals looted to Venice in the 17th century — and life-sized bronze statues of Athena and Artemis with eyes that look almost alive. There’s also a bronze theatrical mask, curly-haired and bearded.
Entrance is €10, cash only.
Hellenic Maritime Museum
Near Pasalimani Port. I wasn’t able to visit it on this trip — it was closed at the time. It covers Greek maritime history from ancient times to today. If you have less than a day in Piraeus, pick one museum based on what interests you.
Pasalimani and Marina Zea
A short walk from the archaeological museum. Pasalimani is a circular natural harbour — the Athenians used it as a naval base and shipbuilding centre long ago. Today, Marina Zea along its edge is full of super-yachts.
Follow the promenade to Plateia Kanari square. The clock of Piraeus stands there, lit up at night. I had coffee at Belle Amie — pretty vintage terrace, elegant neo-classical interior.
Votsalakia Beach
Past the mouth of Pasalimani, along the coastal promenade. This is Piraeus’ main organised beach with sun-beds, cafes and toilets. I could see sports pitches, a swimming pool, and an outdoor summer cinema from above.
Mikrolimano Marina
The smallest of Piraeus’ harbours. Smaller sailing craft and fishing boats here, rather than the bigger yachts at Zea. The road around it is lined with restaurant terraces — I decided to stop for lunch right here.
Seafood Lunch
I walked along the boardwalk once before choosing a table. Settled on Ammos for grilled sardines, kalamari and Greek salad. For something trendier, try Istioploikos at one end of the marina; if you want Michelin-star fine dining, Varoulko Seaside is the well-known spot.
The mainstream restaurants here do well with decent food at medium prices. The ones locals favour tend to be further out — in backstreets or neighbourhoods like Piraiki.
Kastella Hill
After lunch, I climbed up through Kastella. Steps behind the restaurants lead you up narrow residential streets past neo-classical houses. Not too steep, but in hot weather it helps to pause and look at the sea every few minutes.
At the top there’s a well-known seafood restaurant called Panorama with lovely views. I skirted around the Veakio Municipal Theatre and headed for the Church of the Prophet Elias — people were coming out from a christening as I arrived, so I didn’t go inside.
A small wooded park on the hilltop opens to Piraeus below. The main port was just visible in the distance.
Walking Back
Steps lead straight down past the University of Piraeus. About 20 minutes back to Dimotiko Theatro Metro station — a convenient place to end the day. To get to the port area from there, it’s one stop on Line 3 or a further 10-minute walk.
Dinner in Piraeus
Che at 151 Karaiskou is a colourful Latin American restaurant with a garden terrace near Terpsitheas Square — good if you want something different from seafood after a full day of it.
For proper fish, head to Piraiki. It’s far enough that a taxi makes sense. The coastal promenade there runs past the rocky shoreline called the “Rocks of Piraeus” and the inlet at Limanakia Strand. Margaro at Leof. Chatzikiriakou 126 got good recommendations from locals. Any taverna busy with Athenians is usually a safe bet. The 904 bus runs along the coast road back to the port area.
Weekends get crowded, so go early if you can.
Where to Stay
Come by ferry? Stay near the port. Leisure break? Go closer to the marinas and beach.
Budget: Twinn Downtown Piraeus — boutique hotel from the same owners as The Alex, breakfast included, in downtown Piraeus. Piraeus City Hotel is another option close to the port.
Mid-range: Phideas Piraeus Hotel — colourful and stylish with breakfast, near Pasalimani harbour. Port Tower Piraeus Hotel is comfortable and contemporary.
Luxury: Mitsis N’U Piraeus has a restaurant and roof terrace close to the port. The Alex Monte Kastella sits above Mikrolimano — ideal if you want distance from the busy port area.
Tours Worth Considering
A food tour covers the hidden spots in Piraeus that are easy to miss on your own. A Hop-on-Hop-off bus follows the coastal route — useful for seeing both Piraeus and the Athenian Riviera beaches, with flexibility to switch between routes during the day.
Getting There
Train: Overground Line 1 (green) to Piraeus station. Metro Line 3 (blue) stops at both Piraeus and Dimotiko Theatro.
Tram: T7 line runs along the coast from the Athenian Riviera.
Bus: X80 express from Syntagma Square; X96 from Athens airport.
Tickets
An Ath.ena travel card covers unlimited travel on train, bus and metro within the Athens network. The 5-day ticket costs €8.20 — a bargain if you plan to move around for more than two days. You can also tap your debit card on and off for single journeys.
Getting Around
Much of Piraeus is walkable, especially the coastal promenade past both marinas. For longer stretches, order via Uber or Freenow (formerly Beat), or flag one of the yellow cabs that drive around the city.
Leaving Your Baggage
In-Town Check-in has a left-luggage service at their terminal by Gate E3 of the port. There are also other services around Piraeus — you leave your bags with local businesses and book via app or website.
Day Trip: Lake Vouliagmeni
About 20 km south of central Athens, 24 km from Athens airport and 23 km from Piraeus. The lake sits behind the main coast road in Vouliagmeni, a short walk from the nearest beach. This is the most luxury-oriented stretch of the Riviera — home to the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel with its super-yacht marina.
The Golden Hour
A freddo cappuccino on Paleologou street around 5 p.m., watching the park shade deepen and the ferries move slowly across the port. The kind of hour that makes you want to book one extra night somewhere.
FAQ
How long do you need in Piraeus? One full day is enough for the walking itinerary above. Two days lets you slow down and explore Piraiki or Lake Vouliagmeni properly.
Is it walkable? Yes — most of the route from the station to Kastella hill can be done on foot in a half-day at a relaxed pace.
Which museum should I visit? The Archaeological Museum if you like ancient history and marble statues. The Hellenic Maritime Museum if ships and naval history are more your thing. One is enough for a single day.
I once thought of Piraeus as just the place where ferries leave Athens. Walking it slowly changed that — there’s something about a port city at golden hour that makes you want to stay longer than you planned.